Installation Information

Flag to Flagpole Ratio

Flag (Feet) Flagpole Size (Feet)
3 x 5 15
4 x 6 20-25
5 x 8 30-40
6 x 10 45-50
8 x 12 50-60
10 x 15 65-70
12 x 18 80-90
15 x 25 100

Information for Installers
If you are a professional looking for information on installing flagpoles, or technical specs for any of our flagpoles please contact us.

Residential Flagpole Installation Instructions


• Please read and understand these instructions before installing your flagpole.

• It is important to select a location for your pole where it cannot be struck by automobiles, bicycles,
lawn mowers, or any object that can damage it. It is most important to avoid any overhead

• It is most important that you are aware of any gas or power lines or any type of obstruction below
ground. Always contact your local “Dig Safe” service before digging or excavating the area.

• Do not allow the pole to lie around a job site. Keep the pole straight and dry during storage and erect
as soon as possible after delivery.

• DO NOT allow children to operate a flagpole unattended.

• DO NOT climb flagpoles and DO NOT lean ladders against flagpoles.

1. Flagpole Shaft c. Flag Snaps (2)
2. Ground Sleeve d. Truck (pulley assembly) with Self-tapping screws
3. 7’ Butt Extension (for 40’ pole only) e. Tube of Loctite (1)
4. FLAGPOLE FITTINGS f. Cleat with Stainless Self-tapping screws
a. Gold Ball (1) g. Decorative Flash Collar
b. Halyard (rope) (1)

TOOLS & ACCESSORIES REQUIRED (Items not supplied by manufacturer).
1. Level  
2. Pliers
3. Screwdriver
4. Cedar Wedges
5. Dry Sand
6. Cement
7. Drill and Drill Bit
8. Shovel/Excavating Tools (40’ pole only)
9. Crushed Stone
10. Sledgehammer
11. Hacksaw

The foundation requirements depend on the height of the pole, the butt diameter, and most importantly the type
of ground content, i.e., gravel, dirt, sand, etc.
1. Dig a hole 3 to 4 times the diameter of the pole and deep enough for the ground sleeve to be flush with
the surface. (If the ground is soft or sandy, increase the diameter of the hole.)
2. Center the ground sleeve in the hole and fill about 2” of crushed stone in and around the ground sleeve
for drainage.
3. Fill around the ground sleeve with cement. When the hole is about ½ full, plumb the sleeve by placing
a level into the sleeve at 2 points 90 degrees apart. As you continue adding cement, be sure the sleeve
remains plumb.

1. Leave the plastic warp on the pole for protection.
2. Skip to step 4 if butt extension is pre-installed.
3. If installing a 40’ pole, the extension is to be installed at this time. It is designed to protrude 3.5’ – 4’
from the end of the pole. It becomes the part of the pole that goes into the sleeve so the entire finished
part of the pole shows above grade. Insert the extension into the butt end of the pole, making sure
both the inside and outside of the pole are free of sand/debris. The extension is marked, showing
which end goes in the pole. Using a 2 X 4 as a buffer on the bottom of the extension, strike the board
with a sledgehammer, to ensure a snug fit. The extension should NOT show above grade. If the
extension is too long, cut off the excess amount with a hacksaw. DO NOT force inside pole.
4. Slip the flash collar over the pole, if supplied.
5. Apply Loctite to the threads of the gold ball and screw into the truck. DO NOT apply turning force on
the ball. Use pliers on the spindle to tighten. Tighten the lock nut.
6. Place the ball/truck assembly into the top of the pole. Drill 3 holes with a 1/8” bit, 120 degrees apart,
through the shaft and truck stem about 1.5” from the top of the pole. Secure the truck to the pole with
the self-tapping screws provided.
7. If using a revolving truck, screw the truck onto the pole.
8. Thread the halyard through the sheave (pulley), attach the snaps (see illus.) and secure halyard ends
with a square knot. Adjust the spacing between the 2 snaps to match the flag grommets.
If your pole includes a yardarm or a yardarm and gaff, install it at this time, referring to the instructions in the
yardarm box.

1. When the cement is firmly set, remove the upper 2/3 of the plastic wrap from the pole, raise the pole
upright, and lower into the sleeve. Rotate the pole so the pulley faces a direction away from the
prevailing wind.
2. Cut strips lengthwise from a cedar shingle (wedges) and push them part way down between the pole
and sleeve in 3 or 4 places. Double the shims, if necessary, to keep them from dropping in the space.
The shims can be used to plumb the pole by sliding opposite shims up or down as necessary. Use a
level to plumb the pole. Be aware, the pole is tapered and the bubble will not indicate on center but
should remain in the same relative position as it’s placed against the pole on all sides.
3. When the plumb is established, pack the area between the pole and the sleeve with dry sand and tamp
it firmly. Break off the shims level with the sleeve.
4. Remove the rest of the plastic wrap.
5. Drill 2 cleat holes* approximately 48” above grade and opposite the pulley, and secure the cleat with
the self-tapping screws provided. Positioning the cleat on the opposite side from the pulley makes the
halyard take a half turn around the pole, preventing a good deal of rope slapping in the wind. It also
helps keep the pole clean.
*3/16” bit for 20’ – 40’ commercial

1. Dirt on the pole comes mostly from a dirty halyard. The polyester halyard is machine washable.
Replace the halyard often.
2. When the flag is not flying, bring the flag snaps together and wrap them around the cleat to prevent
them from hitting the pole.
3. Wipe off dirt marks with soap and water using a sponge. With white poles, stains or old dirt can often
be removed with a mild bleach solution. DO NOT use sandpaper or any abrasive material on the
surface. The pole can be polished with a non-abrasive cleaning compound recommended for fiberglass
4. Proper flag etiquette precludes flying the flag in inclement weather. Furthermore, the flag should not
be flown in high winds. It can damage the pole and place unnecessary wear on the flag.

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